MAKING EXPLOSIVE!

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THERMITE REACTION

-The thermite reaction  is  used  in welding, because it generates molten

iron  and temperatures of  3500 C  (6000F+).  It  uses  one  of  the previous

reactions that I talked about to start it!

    Starter = Potassium chlorate + Sugar

  Main Part = Iron (III) oxide + Aluminum powder (325 mesh or finer)

                                                                      

     Put  the potassium chlorate +  sugar around and on top of the main part.

To  start  the reaction place  one  drop of concentrated sulfuric acid on top

of the starter mixture.  Step back!  The ratios are: 3 parts iron (III) oxide

to 1 part aluminum powder to 1 part potassium chlorate to 1 part sugar.  When

you first do it, try 3G:1G:1G:1G! Also, there is  an  alternative starter for

the thermite reaction. The alternative is potassium Permanganate + Glycerine.

Amount: 55g Iron(III) oxide, 15g aluminum powder, 25g potassium permanganate,

6ml glycerine.

Napalm Made Easy

       Napalm is in itself a very simple  substance... It  can be used for many

things  (i.e.  getting  back  at your neighbour!!).   Here's what  you  need:

Materials:

              Gasoline

              Joy or Palmolive (I prefer Joy)

              Ammonia pellets

              Drill

              Coke can

              Bendable wire

              Nail

Procedure:

     First, make a mixture of 1/2 Joy,  and 1/2 gasoline.  Take the Coke can,

and  fill  it half  full  with  this wonderful  mixture.  It should look like

this:

          Õ^Í^Í^Í^Í^Í^Í^¸

          ³             ³

          ³             ³ <- Coke can

          ³             ³

          ³XXXXXXXXXXXXX³

          ³XXXXXXXXXXXXX³

          ³XXXXXXXXXXXXX³ <-Mixture

          ³XXXXXXXXXXXXX³

          ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ

     Now,  take the  drill (or  some sharp object) and put a hole through the

ammonia  pellet big enough for the  nail.  Put the nail  through  the  pellet

(which I might  add  can be picked up at any farm supply store) and wire that

to the top of the can so the nail can  be  slipped  out  easily, allowing the

pellet  to  drop. 


 WARNING:  Do not let that pellet fall into the mixture, as

your wife will soon become a widow.

CHEMIST'S CORNER ARTICLE #1: EXPLOSIVES

 THIS ARTICLE  DEALS  WITH THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CREATING SOME DANGEROUS  EXPLOSIVES.IF YOU INTEND TO  MAKE ANY OF THESE EXPLOSIVES, DO  SO IN SMALL AMOUNTS ONLY, AS THEY ARE ALL DANGEROUS  AND COULD SERIOUSLY  INJURE OR KILL YOU IF DONE IN LARGER AMOUNTS. IF YOU  DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT  CHEMISTRY, DON'T DO THESE EXPERIMENTS!  I AM NOT JOKING IN GIVING THIS WARNING.  UNLESS YOU  HAVE  A  DEATH  WISH, YOU SHOULDN'T TRY ANY OF THE FOLLOWING UNLESS YOUHAVE HAD PRIOR EXPERIENCE WITH CHEMICALS.

 A) Gunpowder:

              75% Potassium Nitrate

              15% Charcoal

              10% Sulfur

     The chemicals should be ground into  a file  powder (separately!) with a

morter and  pestle. If gunpowder is ignited in the open, it  burns  fiercely,

but if in a closed  space  it  builds up pressure from the released gases and

can  explode   the  container.  Gunpowder  works  like  this:  The  potassium

nitrate  oxidizes the charcoal and sulfur, which then burns fiercely.  Carbon

dioxide and sulfur dioxide are the gases released.

 B) Ammonal:

   
Ammonal is a mixture of ammonium nitrate (a strong oxidizer) with aluminum powder (the 'fuel' in this case). I am not sure of the percentage of composition for ammonial, so you may want to experiment a little using small amounts.                                                                                                             

                                  POLISH FLAIRS

Materials:

              Potassium nitrate (saltpeter)

              Sucrose (sugar)

              Napkin

Procedure:

    Mix equal amounts on a napkin and ignite it.  It will flare upand smoke.    

NOTE:  Do not inhale the smoke - it is hazardous!

 C) Chemically Ignited Explosives:

 Experiment 1:

     A mixture of 1  part  potassium  chlorate  to  3  parts  table  sugar

     (sucrose) burns fiercely  and brightly  (similar  to  the  burning of

     magnesium) when 1 drop  of  concentrated  sulfuric  acid is placed on

     it.  What occurs is this:  when  the  acid  is  added  it reacts with

     the potassium chlorate to form  chlorine  dioxide,  which explodes on

     formation, burning the sugar  as  well.

Experiment 2:

     Using various chemicals, I have  developed  a  mixture  that works very

     well  for  imitating volcanic eruptions.  I have given it the name 'MPG

     Volcanite'.  Here  it is:  Potassium chlorate + potassium perchlorate +

     ammonium nitrate + ammonium dichromate + potassium  nitrate  +  sugar +

     sulfur + iron filings + charcoal +  zinc  dust  +  some coloring agent.

     (Scarlet  =  strontium  nitrate,  Purple  =  Iodine  crystals, Yellow =

     Sodium chloride, Crimson = Calcium chloride, etc).

Experiment 3:

     So,  do  you  think  water  puts out fires?  In this one, it starts it!

     Mixture:  Ammonium  nitrate  +  ammonium chloride + iodine + zinc dust.

     When a drop or two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms nitric

     acid which reacts with the zinc to produce hydrogen and heat.  The heat

     vaporizes the  iodine  (giving  off  purple  smoke)  and  the  ammonium

     chloride (becomes  purple  when  mixed with iodine vapor).  It also may

     ignite the hydrogen and begin burning.

       Ammonium nitrate:  8g

      Ammonium chloride:  1g

              Zinc dust:  8g

        Iodine crystals:  1g

 Experiment 4:        

     Potassium permanganate + glycerine when mixed produces a purple-coloured

     flame  in  30  seconds  to  1  minute.  Works  best  if  the   potassium

     permanganate is finely ground.

 Experiment 5:

     Calcium  carbide  + water releases acetylene gas (highly  flammable  gas

     used in blow torches).

NITROGEN-CONTAINING HIGH EXPLOSIVES

  A) Mercury (II) Fulminate

     To  produce  mercury  (II) Fulminate, a very sensitive shock explosive,

one might assume that  it  could  be  formed  by  adding  fulminic  acid  to

mercury.  This  is  somewhat  difficult since fulminic acid is very unstable

and cannot be purchased.  I  did some research and figured out a way to make

it without fulminic acid.  You add 2 parts nitric acid to 2 parts alcohol to

1 part mercury.  This is  theoretical  (I  have not yet tried it) so please,

if you try this, do it in  VERY  small  amounts  and  tell  me  the results.

  

BOMB CONTAINERS

 Drill a hole in a ping pong  ball  and  fill  it  up  with  plastic

explosives. If you're lucky enough to live in a high rise apartment, do

this:  Take your ping pong ball bomb  and  put  a magnesium ribbon fuse

(1 foot long)  in  the  ball (you can add BB pellets) and  light  it at

midnight and throw it down!

The foot long fuse should should give it 30  seconds  to  Dr. Boom Doom

Time.  I bet you a buck you'll wake up the neighbourhood!

    Or, go to a mall and pour gunpowder in an  ashtray  with  the  sand

in it.  Put lots just under the surface and put a small ball of plastic

explosives.  Too bad you can't see the  face  of  the  person who tried

to put out his cigarette!  I bet he'll fucking stop smoking right away!

    Try  thick rolled up cardboard cylinders and fill them up with your

favourite explosive.

 Nitrogen Triiodide

     Nitrogen  Triiodide  is  a  very  powerful  and  very  shock  sensitive

explosive.  Never  store it and be careful when you're around it; sound, air

movements, and other tiny things could set it off.

Materials:

              2-3g Iodine

              15ml Concentrated ammonia

              8 Sheets of filter paper

              50ml beaker

              Feather mounted on a two meter pole

              Ear Plugs

              Tape

              Spatula

              Stirring Rod

Procedure:

     Add 2-3g iodine to 15ml ammonia in the 50ml beaker.  Stir, let stand for

5 minutes.  Do the  following  within  5  minutes:  Retain  the solid, decant

the liquid (pour off the liquid but keep the brown solid).  Scrape  the brown

residue of nitrogen triiodide onto a stack of four sheets  of  filter  paper.

Divide  solid into four parts, putting each on a separate sheet of dry filter

paper.  Tape  in  position, leave  to dry undisturbed for at least 30 minutes

(preferably longer).  To detonate,  touch  with  feather (wear ear plugs when

detonating or cover ears; it is very loud!).

  C) Cellulose Nitrate (Guncotton)

 Commonly known  as  smokeless powder, nitrocellulose is exactly that; it

does not give off smoke when it burns.

Materials:

              70ml  Concentrated sulfuric acid

              30ml  Concentrated nitric acid

              5g    Absorbent cotton

              250ml 1M Sodium bicarbonate

              250ml beaker

              Ice bath

              Tongs

              Paper towels

Procedure:

     Place 250ml beaker  in  the  ice  bath,  add  70ml  sulfuric  acid, 30ml

nitric acid.  Divide cotton into 0.7g pieces.  With tongs, immerse each piece

in  the  acid  solution for 1 minute.  Next, rinse each piece in 3 successive

baths  of  500ml  water.  Use  fresh water for each piece.  Then  immerse  in

250ml 1M Sodium Bicarbonate.  If it bubbles, rinse in water once  more  until

no bubbling occurs.  Squeeze dry and spread on paper towels, compress it into

cakes  or  blocks  or  gelatanize  it  with acetone.  This is powerful stuff!

D) Acetone Hydrogen Explosive:

Materials:

           4ml Acetone

           4ml 30% hydrogen peroxide

           4 Drops concentrated hydrochloric acid

           150mm test tube

     Add 4ml acetone and  4ml  hydrogen  peroxide  to  the test tube.  Then

add 4 drops concentrated hydrochloric acid.  In 10-20 minutes a white solid

should begin to appear.  If no change is observed, warm the  test tube in a

water bath at 40 Celsius.  Allow the reaction to continue  for  two  hours.

Swirl the slurry and filter it.  Leave out on filter paper to  dry  for  at

least two hours.  To ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light

it (while standing at least a meter away).

  E) Smoke, Smoke, Smoke...

     The following reaction should produce a fair amount  of  smoke.  Since

this  reaction  is  not  all  the  dangerous, you can use larger amounts if

necessary for larger amounts of smoke.

   6g Zinc powder

   1g Sulfur Powder

     Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back.  A lot of smoke should

     be created.

                RECIPE FOR A STANDARD PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE

Method A:

Materials:

              Gasoline  - 1 part

              Oil       - 1 half part

              Styrofoam - 1 part

1) Melt styrofoam (remember NEVER at  ANY  time let the mixture get too hot)!

   NOTE:  Do NOT inhale the fumes - they are deady!

2) Let cool to a thick viscosity.

3) Mix 3 ingredients together in the following order: Styrofoam, oil, &  gas.

4) Mix in a deep pot - Keep mixture away  from  any  type  of  fire!  Do this

   step with extreme caution!

5) Let  the mixture  cool to a little bit warmer that room temperature, which

   is around 88 degrees Fahrenheit.

6) Mold  the mixture  how  you  want  (different  shapes will make it more or

   less lethal).

Dr. Booms Method:

Materials:

              20ml gasoline

              5-10 plastic bags

              10ml oil or starter fluid

              50ml beaker or glass bowl

              gunpowder, guncotton or acetone hydrogen

Procedure:

    Pour gas in glass container and add bags to gas and dissolve until fairly

thick vicosity like melted marshmallow (actually, marshmallows would probably

work just as well or better than plastic bags!)  and add oil.  Add bags again

until very thick.  Add  the  guncotton  and  mix well.  Keep on adding strips

of   plastic   until  no  more  will  dissolve  and  then  pour  in  a  mold.

NOTE:  It would a good  idea  to  heat  this  stuff  with  a  double  boiler.

Optional: You can  add  nuts,  bolts,  and  screws  while  mixing, along with

gunpowder,  2 M-80's  or   any  other  type  of  explosive  to  make  it  the

equivalent  of  a  Molotov   cocktail,  but  be warned:  The fragments (nuts,

bolts, etc.) are deadly.  They  will penetrate  a brick wall when the mixture

is detonated.

Detonation:

1) The mixture  can  be  thrown,  but  sometimes  detonation does not occur.

2) The  mixture  can  be  wired  for  an  electric charge to be sent through

   it.  It will detonate without doubt.  A  regular fuse can be sent through

   it  also.  If this  method is used, some sort  of timer  is  recommended.

  CREATION OF THERMITE!

     Thermite  is  a  powerful  substance which can burn through practically

anything, save tungsten.  It  is  especially  of use in trying to crack open

a  fortress  fone.  How  here's  how  you  make  it.  It  is  very   simple.

     The  first  step  in making thermite is to make hematite.  In laymans's

terms,  Hemetite  is  iron  oxide  (rust).  Here  is a good method of making

large quantities of rust.  You  will  electrolyze  a  metal  rod,  such as a

common nail.  You will need a source of  DC  power  as  well.   An  electric

train transformer is perfect.  Attach  the  rod  to the positive wire.  Then

place the rod and the negative wire in opposite  sides of a glass jar filled

with water.  Put a little salt in the water, just  enough to make it conduct

well (a teaspoon).  Let the setup sit overnight.  In the morning, there will

be a dark red crud in the jar.  Filter all the crud out of the water of just

fish it out will a spoon.  Now you will need to  dry  it out.  Heat it in an

iron pot until it all turns a nice light red.

     The  other  ingredient  you  will  need  is  aluminum filings.  You can

either file down a  bar  of  aluminum,  or  (as  I  suggest),  but  aluminum

filings at your  local  hardware  shop  (if  you  buy  the  bar, use no less

than 94% pure aluminum - it is called duralumin).

     That's  almost  it!   Now,  mix together the rust and aluminum filings.

The ratio should be 8 grams of rust per 3 grams of aluminum filings.  That's

thermite!

     Now, to light it!  Stick a length  of  magnesium  ribbon  in  a pile of

the  thermite  (either  steal  it  from  a  chem lab or buy it at your local

hardware store).  If not, order from a  chemical  supply house.  It's pretty

cheap).  The  ribbon  should  stick  into  the   thermite   like   a   fuse.

     Now you light the magnesium with  a  blowtorch  (don't worry, the torch

isn't  hot  enough  to  light the thermite).   When  the  burning  magnesium

reaches the thermite,  it  will  light.  When  the  thermite  burns, get the

hell back!   That  stuff  can  vaporize carbon steel, and it does wonders on

human flesh!

           HOW TO MAKE A 'REAL'[> PIPE BOMB <]    

  This file was written for INFORMATION  PURPOSES  ONLY,  and NOT forillegal use.   The writer cannot be held  responsible  for anything  youdo  to yourself!!!!   If there are any  spelling or grammatical  errors,then FUCK OFF AND DIE cause I don't really care...  my  point  is drivenacross.

     Well  first  of all in order to make a pipe bomb , you  must  first

have a pipe.  It doesn't matter how big, or how small,  you  could use a

1 inch copper pipe, or you could use a 2 foot long drainage  pipe.  Once

you  have  this,  you  will  need  a   few   ingredients  first.   These

ingredients make a substance called  'flash  powder'.  This can be a lot

of  fun if you make a pile of it about  1/4  lbs.  and have your  friend

light  it  with  a match (some friend).  Well,  here's  what  you  need:

  1> Potassium Chlorate (get it at any chemical store)

  2> Powdered Charcoal (not briquets, take some ash from the fire place)

  3> Powdered Magnesium (ground up mag. fire starters from camping sections)

  4> Sulfur (you know where to get this!)

  5> Some kind of piping

  6> Hot glue gun, or melted glue

  7> Small drill bit and drill

  8> Tissue paper (ie. Kleenex)

  9> Mist water bottle + sprayer (Windex bottle, etc..)

     The  magnesium  has  to be FINE!!! The finer the faster! You can get

them  in the camping sections  of  Caldor,  and  Sears.  They look like a

block of aluminum on a key chain ($5.00 - $7.00  butthey go a long way!).

     Now that you have the stuff,  start the  work.   Find  a  drill  bit

about  the  size of a pencil point,  and drill  a  small hole about  dead

center of the pipe, only drill thru one side of  the  pipe,  don't  drill

both  sides.   Now you should have a  piece  of  pipe,  with a small hole

drilled  into  it.   After this,  take  some  hot  glue (hot glue  gun or

such).   Take a piece of regular paper (not tissue)  and  stuff  it  into

one  end of the pipe,  so it plugs up the hole, and  is  about  2cm  into

the pipe.   Now fill that end with melted glue  over  the  paper,  so its

about even with the pipe, and sit that  down  on  another piece of paper.

Now you should have a pipe with a small hole  in  the center, and one end

with about 2 cm of glue on it, and 2 pieces  of  paper on either side  of

the glue.

     So  far  so  good...  now  for  the  flash   powder.   Pour  in  the

potassium chlorate  (largest amount).   Then  pour  in  the  charcoal  (a

little less than the chlorate). Pour this stuff  into  a  grinding plate,

not the pipe. Now for the magnesium you filed off the  block  and  ground

up finally,  make this a bit  less  than  the  charcoal  amount.   Lastly

add  the  sulphur,  only a little though,  about  half  as  much  as  the

magnesium  you  just put in.   Now grind  all  the  ingredients  together

until they look like  1  grey  dust.   Try a little bit (no not the whole

damn thing! save that for the  fun later!).  Light it and see how fast it

goes  off.   Your  gonna  have  to fiddle with it until it turns out  the

fastest (sounds like something else eh?).

     Now that you have the flash powder ready,  stick a piece of  tape

over the small hole you drilled (so nothing spills out).  Put the pipe

over  a sheet of regular paper so you don't loose any of this precious

flash powder and start to poor it into the pipe.   One the pipe  seems

full,  place  a piece of paper over the opening in that end,  and pack

that piece of paper, and the powder down into the pipe.

     Take  the paper out,  and pour more powder in.   Keep  doing  his

until  its very well packed,  and its almost full!  Make sure that the

flash powder fills above the small hole you drilled!  Now put a  piece

of  paper over the powder, and give it one last pack (a small rod, and

a hammer will do just fine, but make sure you don't get any sparks!!).

     After  that,  pour in your final glue in the end you just packed,

make sure it fills to about 2 cm of glue in that end, over the  paper!

Stick  another  piece of paper over that end (just glued) and  let  it

dry, but when drying put it on a flat surface so it hardens flat!

     While your waiting for it to dry, take your tissue paper, and lie

it  down flat on the table,  over a piece of cardboard or something if

its  a good table!!  Now mix some water with the flash  powder  (about

1/2-1/2  mix).   No  it  won't  kill the powder.   Now  shake  up  the

bottle, and  spray the tissue paper with the mixture Let  it  dry, and

repeat  the sequence.   After about 4 shots on 1 side,  repeat on  the

other  side (flip the tissue paper).  Continue this until your liking.

When this is done,  and the tissue paper is dry,  tear/cut off a small

sheet, roll it, and light it.

     If you like it, then fine, if not, then keep spraying it.  If you

like  to,  before rolling  it,  pour in some  flash  powder  (not  too

much!!!)  and roll it like a joint.   Then twist it.   You now have  a

fuse (really?!?!).  Make sure its long!!

     Now for the final assembly.  Take the tape off the small hole you

drilled,  and  poke  thru the powder with a pencil point/ice  pick  or

whatever (or the drill bit!).   If you REALLY want to, then put a drop

of glue to hold the fuse in better,  but you don't have to!!  (not too

much!).   Now  make sure the glue has hardened for about 1 hour or  so

until its rock hard (no ideas!).

     You are now the proud owner of a home made PIPE BOMB.   Great for

parties/special occasions, weddings, Russians, mail boxes and anything

else  you want to do.  When you light this bomb,  point the end in the

direction you are gonna be running in, and don't throw it (unless your

crazy,  and in that case,  I don't give a shit!) so it doesn't frag in

your face!

    If  you  really want to fancy it up, you can always  use  threaded

steel end caps!!!!!!

     Well I hope you enjoyed your fun today, and happy bomb making!

     Be safe (hehehe)

THE JUG BAND BOMB……good…gadgets    
             

This one is short and sweet:

1) Get hold of a glass jug, put in a few drops of gasoline and cap the top.

3) Now turn the jug around to  coat  the  inner  surfaces  and  evaporates.

4) Add a few drops of potassium  permanganate  (you  can get this real easy

   from a snake-bite kit).

5) The  bomb  is  detonated  by  throwing  or forcibly rolling it against a

   solid object.

When  this  sucker  goes  off,  it  is  the same as half stick of dynamite. 

HOW TO MAKE TNT...

     Probably the most important explosive compound in use today is TNT

(trinitrotoluene).   This  and  other very  similar types of  high  ex-

plosives  are  all used by the military,  because  of  their  fantastic

power,  about  2.25 millions pounds per square  inch,  and their  great

stability.   TNT  also  has  the great advantage  of being able  to  be

melted  at  82  degrees F.,  so that  it can  be  poured  into  shells,

mortars,  or any other projectiles.   Military  TNT comes in containers

which  resemble  dry cell batteries,  and  are  usually ignited  by  an

electrical charge,  coupled with an electrical blasting  cap,  although

there are other methods.

Preparation of TNT:

1 -   Take two beakers.  In the first prepare a solution of 76 percent
      sulfuric acid,  23 percent nitric acid and 1 percent water.   In
      the other beaker, prepare another  solution of 57 percent nitric
      acid  and 43 percent sulfuric acid (percentages are on a  weight
      ratio rather than volume).
2 -   Ten grams of the first solutions are poured into an empty beaker
      and placed in an ice bath.
3 -   Add  ten  grams  of  toluene,  and  stir  for  several  minutes.
4 -   Remove  this  beaker from the ice bath and gently heat until  it
      reaches 50 degrees C.   The solution is stirred constantly while
      being heated.
5 -   Fifty additional grams of the acid,  from the first beaker,  are
      added and the temperature is held for the next ten minutes,  and
      an  oily  liquid  will  begin  to  form  on the top of the acid.                                               
6 -   After 10 or 12 minutes, the acid solution is returned to the ice
      bath,   and  cooled  to  45  degrees  C.   When  reaching   this
      temperature, the oily liquid will sink and collect at the bottom
      of  the  beaker.   At this point,  the remaining  acid  solution
      should be drawn off, by using a syringe.
7 -   Fifty  more  grams of the first acid solution are added  to  the
      oily  liquid while the temperature is SLOWLY being raised to  83
      degrees C.  After this temperature is reached,  it is maintained
      for a full half hour.
8 -   At the end of this period, the solution is allowed to cool to 60
      degrees  C,  and  is held at  this temperature for another  full
      half hour. After this, the acid is again drawn off, leaving once
      more only the oily liquid at the bottom.
9 -   Thirty grams of sulfuric acid are added,  while the oily  liquid
      is  gently  heated to 80 degrees C.   All temperature  increases
      must be accomplished slowly and gently.
10 -  Once the desired temperature is reached,  30 grams of the second
      acid solution are added,  and the temperature is raised from  80
      degrees C to 104 degrees C, and is held for three hours.
11 -  After  this  three hour period,  the mixture is lowered  to  100
      degrees C and held there for a half hour.
12 -  After  this  half  hour,  the oil is removed form the  acid  and
      washed with boiling water.
13 -  After  the  washing  with  boiling  water, while  being  stirred
      constantly, the TNT will begin to solidify.
14 -  When the solidification has started,  cold water is added to the
      beaker,  so that the TNT will form into pellets.   Once this  is
      done, you have a good quality TNT.

NOTE: The  temperatures used in the preparation of TNT are EXACT,  and  must  be used as such.   DO NOT estimate or  use approximations.   Buy a good centigrade thermometer.

The  author  take NO RESPONSIBILITY for any damage to  persons  or

property for this formula.  It is supplied for STUDY PURPOSES ONLY.

DETONATING TNT AND DYNAMITE

    Even though  TNT and Dynamite are powerful  explosives,  to  set  them

off you need a smaller explosion or a charge.  For the shock needed to set

them off, plastic  explosives  can  be  used.  It's easy to make and quite

powerful.  Let's say you use TNT:  There's  the  two  basic ways to do it.

If you want to use a ping pong ball, fill it  half  way  with TNT and fill

the other half with plastic explosives.  Since your using small amounts of

TNT,  you  can  use  a  LONG fuse (at least 1 foot)  of  magnesium  ribbon

as a fuse, but never put it under a  car  or  it'll  blow it up (yes, it's

still pretty damn powerful).

    If you're a little  nuts  and  decide  to make a large charge, I would

recomment  using  an  electronic  detonator  or  timer.   Well, I hope you

enjoy your bomb making (if you ever go to the  CN  tower,  bring  a little

ball  of  Dynamite or TNT and rop it  and  30  seconds  later,  enjoy  the

fireworks -the shock is strong enough to detonate it.  A penny will

penetrate 1 food into concrete!).

                                     CORDITE                                  

Materials:

              Guncotton

              Nitroglycerine

              Acetone

              Petroleum jelly

Procedure:

    Cordite is a smokeless explosive - you take your guncotton, mix it with

nitroglycerine,  petroleum  jelly  and  a little acetone and let it dry and

then you have cordite!  You can use it  by  itself  or  with other charges

STINK BOMB

If you want more life in your party (or break it up), you have to try this.

Materials:

              Aerosol can of whipcream

              Plastic bags, styrofoam...

              Magnesium ribbon

              5ml gas

              Matches

Procedure(s):

Part 1

       Buy  a  can  of  whipcream (the kind in the aerosol can) and leave

it under your bed for a  week  for  it  to spoil.  Press the nozzle for 5

seconds, it can avacuate  a  whole  room  from the stench (think  what 10

seconds can do)!

Part 2

       Take 5ml of gas, and add to it plastic (like bads, styrofoam, etc)

until it won't dissolve anymore or so thick it  won't  run.  Take the cap

off the can and wrap the nozzle 2 times with magnesium  ribbon.  Leave  1

foot for the fuse and take the plastic gas and form it around  the nozzle

and light the fuse and run.  Watch the fireworks and  asked  who squeezed

the cheese!).

                        NITROGLYCERIN        

WARNING:  This stuff is very dangerous, wear goggles at ALL times and

          for God's sake don't SNEEZE while making it!

Materials:

              Glass bowl and glass rod

              Water (lots of it)

              Sulfuric acid

              Nitric Acid

              Glycerin

              Refrigerator

    Make sure you get a GLASS bowl and stirring rod.  The Sulfuric acid

and Nitric acid are about 5 bucks each at a chemical warehouse and  you

can get the glycerin from a clear, yellow/brown  bar  of  soap  from  a

health food store (i.e. - Cardish).

Procedure:

    Carefully mix equal  amounts  of  the  acids in a glass bowl of 2 parts

water to 3 parts of the mixture of  acid.  Put mixture and bar of glycerine

soap in the fridge by the milk (don't freeze  the damn thing!) and leave it

for 2 hours. Since the mixture won't blow up until 15 C, the fridge's temp-

erature (5 C) will  prevent  detonation  (and we don't want THAT to happen,

or at least not NOW).  Shred the soap to a flaky powder and  dissolve it in

the  acid  solution (and KEEP it in the fridge ALWAYS, or ELSE!).  Leave it

in the fridge for 5 days (since this process takes a long time), and after

5 days you should have an oily yellow substance (which is  quite  lethal),

and some liquid acid left.  Skim off the  excess  acid  to  leave only the

thick yellow gunk (nitro) and add lots of water to  it  (don't drown it or

you're fucked) and put it back in the fridge  until  you  need  it - never

keep it out of the fridge too long (and  make  sure  it's  not  eaten  for

dinner).  It  can  be detonated by  dropping  it, throwing it, shaking it,

by sneezing on it, or with an electrical charge (such as a timer).

    You might want to soak  it in sawdust or something similar so it won't

blow up as easily if you  happen  to accidentally bump it or something

 DYNAMITE

DANGER:  Dynamite is highly explosive (although great fun), and we suggest  that if you actually  attempt  to make this - make it in very low quantities so you don't blow the roof off your  house.  Also  use  extreme caution if you live in an earthquake zone!

Materials:

              thermometer

              glass bowls

              stirring rods

              nitroglycerin

              newspaper or Kieselguhr

              sodium, potassium, or ammonium nitrate

              guncotton, gunpowder or plastic explosives

              cotton and cardboard

              detonator (see below)

    Newspaper is used here, but originally you use Kieselguhr (a  porous

silica substance) but the book says  that  newspaper works just as well.

With the silica substance it is more like plastic, with wood pulp it  is

more like paper mache.

Procedure:

    First soak strips of  newspaper overnight so they become mushy and then

mush it in your hands (isn't  this  fun?!?)  until  it  becomes more like a

paste (you can do that with the blender set on liquify to speed things up).

Keep the nitroglycerine in the fridge at all times!

    Collect the pulpwith a strainer and let it dry slightly and then add on

add on the chemicals listed above (except for the nitroglycerine) with pulp

being 2 parts and the chemicals being 1 part (ratio 2:1).  Mix well.

    Almost done!  Now put it in the fridge for an hour and then pour 1 part

nitroglycerine and  1.5 parts mixture (ratio 1:1.5) and use the thermometer

to make sure everything is below 15 C.

    Now make a cardboard  tube  3  inches  long  with a radius of 1cm.  Put

cotton  in  one end as a plug and pour in the  dynamite  until  it  is  2/3

full  (2"  down  the  tube) and leave it in a safe (DRY) place where it can

dry peacefully and pray that there isn't an earthquake!

    When it's  dry,  fill the remaining 1 inch (1/3) with either gunpowder,

guncotton or plastic explosives  and cap the top and stick in a fuse, which

should be wires with a rocket igniter at the end connected to a copper wire

a   L O N G   distance away to a  power  source.  You can also use a timer,

but DON'T LIGHT the damn thing!

    Be careful with this stuff  unless  you  want  to  join  AstroBoy - the

pressure given off is about 2 million pounds per square inch.

Acetone Peroxide Explosive   

      This  explosive  can not only  be  used  as an explosive, but also as a
detonator.  I  will  go  into  this  one  very  detailed and all my followingarticles will be the same.

Materials:

Hydrogen Peroxide (hair bleach, drug stores and hair supply stores)

Acetone (hardware Stores and drug stores)

Sulfuric Acid (clear battery acid boiled until white fumes appear)

Eye Dropper or Syringe w/glass tube

Graduated Cylinder (cc or ml)

Thermometer (0 to 100 degrees C)

Glass Containers

Large Pan

Ice and Salt

Water

Paper Towels

All the above can easily be commandeered from your school laboratory for your

own purposes.

Procedure:

1)  Mix 30 ml of Acetone and 50ml of Hydrogen Peroxide into a glass container

    and mix thoroughly.

2)  Cool it by placing it in a  larger container  containing  ice, salt,  and

    water.  Now cool it to 5 degrees Celsius.

3)  Add 2.5 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the mixture  slowly  (drop by

    drop w/ the eye dropper).  Stir the mixture w/the thermometer keeping the

    temperature  between  5-10  degrees  Celsius.  If  the temperature  rises

    don't shit just stop adding the  sulfuric acid until it cools  down  then

    start adding it again.

4)  Now  that you have all  the  acid  into the mixture continue stirring for

    another 5 minutes.

5)  Now let the mixture stand for 12 to 24 hours in the ice/salt bath.

6)  After 12 hours the crystals of acetone peroxide will precipitate  out  of

    the once  clear  solution.  Precipitation should be done after 24  hours.

7)  Now filter out the  crystals  through a paper towel attached to a jar w/a

    rubber band.  Then after that wash the crystals by pouring ice cold water

    over them, letting the water rinse the crystals & filter down through the

    paper towel into the jar.

8)  Select a container and allow them to dry.

                                                              

Uses:

  Now this can be used as an explosive however it is the simplest detonator That I have ever encountered.  Works best in 2.5 inch lengths of brass tubing with one end sealed.  The only drawback is that it must be used quickly as Acetone   Peroxide   deteriorates   quickly.   I have found that keeping it refrigerated seems to make it last longer however for optimum effect it should be used 7 days after manufacture at the latest.  It  also  can  be  used  to detonate  almost  every  Ammonium  Nitrate   compound,  and  Ammonium  Nitrate itself for that matter.

Fertilizer/Hydrazine Liquid Explosive   

                             Jack The Ripper

     This one  is  a  killer  it  is more powerful and more brisant than C-4.

However you need a blasting cap to detonate or a  homemade compound detonator.

Namely  Acetone   Peroxide  detonators  can  be  used  here  or  Mini-Compound

Detonators.

Materials:

Ammonium Nitrate Fertilizer (no less than            -  Farm and Feed Stores

32% Nitrogen) or pure

Anhydrous Hydrazine                                  -  Chemical Supply House

(Be careful with this one it is very reactive!!!)

Large Mixing Container

GLASS stirring rod

Storage Container w/tight lid

Blasting Cap or Compound Detonator

Procedure:

NOTE: mixing these two is the same as baking soda and vinegar so the reaction

Is very effervescent & can bubble over the top so use a jar 6 times the volume

Of the Hydrazine!  Also large volumes of ammonia gas are released when these

Two are mixed so wear a gas mask or be upwind of the mixing.

1) Pour into the container the an amount of Anhydrous Hydrazine equal to the

    Amount of explosive required.

2) Ammonium Nitrate Prilled or Powdered is added a teaspoon at a time to the

   Container, then wait for it to dissolve (stirring constantly),& then add

    More.

3)  Continue the above process until the ammonium nitrate no longer dissolves

    Into the hydrazine, and don't worry about the small amount of ammonium

    Nitrate left over.

4)Now you’re basically done and you have an explosive more powerful than                                                                                                        any military explosive. 

5) To make it more powerful add 20% aluminum powder to the mixture (100 mesh

    Or finer)

Uses:

    This mixture has unique absorption and retention properties, and can be

Poured directly on the ground for a liquid land mine.  This type of land mine

Is totally disguised and cannot be noticed, and all you need to do is bury a

Compound detonator in the ground, which can be detonated by a step switch etc.

    This type of land mine remains detonable for up to four days regardless

of rain etc...  It can also be poured into a container and used as a bomb.

RDX Explosive....!!!!      

   The reason I wrote this is because the other file I saw on how to make RDX

was so shabby and lame it was probably  written  by  an eight year old mental

patient.  So here is mine easy!  Straightforward!  Comprehendible!

Materials:

Hexamethylenetetramine (drug stores under Hexamin, Urotropine, & Methenamine)

Strong Nitric Acid (chemical supply house or some hardware stores)

Acetone (drug stores and hardware stores)

Scale with gram accuracy

Graduated Cylinder (cc or ml) or measuring cups

Thermometer 20-100 degrees Celsius or 68-212 degrees Fahrenheit

Several large quart canning jars

Two large basins or bowls made of metal or some other heatable metal

Paper Towels

Procedure:

1)  Place one half cup or 120 ml or cc of nitric  acid in a large canning jar and bring the temperature to between 20 and 30 degrees Celsius (68-86 F) by putting the jar in a basin of cold water.

2)  Keep the thermometer  in the  jar  so  you  can  closely  maintain  the temperature between your basins of hot and cold water.

3)  Weigh out 70 grams by weight or 18 teaspoons by  volume of  hexamin.  Then start adding the hexamin slowly at 1/2 teaspoon at a time over a 15 minute time period.  All the while maintaining the temperature between  20 and 30

    degrees celcius by moving it in and out of the cold water basins.

4)  When all the hexamin is dissolved in the acid heat the solution  to  55 degrees Celsius (131 F) by placing the  jar  in a basin of hot water.  Then maintain this temperature for about ten minutes.

5)  Now remove the jar from the basin of hot water  and  place it in the basin of cold water and cool the jar to 20 degrees Celsius (68 F).  Now when the solution reaches 20 degrees Celsius add 3 cups (750ml) of cold water and white salt will appear.

6)  Now the white salt is RDX and should be handled with care.  Now filter the Acid/Water/RDX solution through a paper towel covering the mouth of another jar.

7)  Wash the RDX crystals off the paper towel and add an additional 3 cups of fresh cold water & a teaspoon of sodium carbonate to neutralize the acid now stir rapidly for 3 minutes and then filter it out again.

8)  It is now usable, but I prefer purifying it by filling a quart canning jar 2/3 full of acetone & heating the acetone then adding the RDX crystals to it a half teaspoon at a time until it completely dissolves in the acetone.

9)  Now that it is all dissolved let the solution cool to room temperature and let it stand for one hour.  The RDX will then precipitate again into its salt.  Then you must filter it through a paper towel around another jar &

Rinse it with cold water the same way you did before.   Now you have the finished product roughly 1 and 1/2 ounces of RDX.

10) Now store your finished product (after it dries) in a jar with an air tight lid for future use.  Seeing that RDX does not lose its effectiveness for months.

Uses:

   RDX is a very powerful explosive however it can be compressed into tubes toMake detonators. Later in this newsletter I will prescribe a method for makingDetonators in which RDX will be used along with other explosives before

Mentioned.  RDX however is sensitive to friction, and can be used as anExplosive by itself.  It is also commonly referred to as Clyclonite.

                          Mini-Compound Detonator              

  This is basically a tutorial in making detonators, and there are a few
rules, that I would like each & every one of you to follow. Making detonatorsis very dangerous considering  that the  purpose of detonators is for them tobe sensitive and easily detonated, so be careful.  Also  the  detonators I amtelling you how to make are small, but the same principle can be applied on alarger scale.

Materials:

Name                                                      Source

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Empty .22 Magnum  shells  or  copper/brass/aluminum      Gun stores or hard-

tubing 1/4 inch in diameter and 1 inch long.  These      ware stores

tubes must also be closed at one end.

A substantial quantity of Secondary Explosive i.e. RDX   PETN is the center

(amount depends on how many detonators you  intend  to   filling of detonating

made) PETN can be substituted here.                      cords.

A substantial quantity of primary explosive i.e.

Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide.

An ignition charge of black powder.   Gun stores FFF black  powder.

A  loading  press  (commonly used for reloading shells   Gun stores

also  please  be  safe  considering  a  few  of  these

detonators may  detonate  when  being  compressed,  so

take the neccessary precautions such as safety glasses

etc...)

Procedure:

NOTE: dirt  or  oil may sensitive  the  detonators to an unsafe level so when

handling the primary & secondary & ingnition charges  use tongs.  Also boil a

bucket of water in the room as humidity helps or if your in a house turn your

shower on hot and leave it on!

1)    Now light a candle, and  let  two  drops  of  wax  drip into each shell

      casing before use.  Then let the wax cool down.

2)    Now fill the casing to  a  depth of 1/4 inch with RDX or PETN, and then

      GENTLY  and  SLOWLY insert the ram  and  compress  the explosive slowly

      and evenly.  Now remove the ram slowly and carefully.

3)    Continue this process adding small amounts  of  RDX  or  PETN  until  a

      column of secondary explosive 5/8 of an inch high has been pressed into

      the 1 inch shell casing.

4)    Now add a small amount of Primary explosive the  same way you added the

      secondary explosive on top of the  secondary  explosive.  Now  add  the

      Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide on top of the 5/8  inch column of

      secondary explosive and compress it  with  the  ram  until it reaches a

      height of primary explosive 1/4 inch high.

5)    Now compress the remaining 1/8 of an inch with black powder.  Now  seal

      the top with wax paper or tape until ready for use.

Diagram:

                           -   +++++

                           |   |@@@@|

                           |   |****|

                           |   |****|

                           |   |####|

              1 Inch ------<   |####|

                           |   |####|

                           |   |####|

                           |   |####|

                           |   |----|

                           -   |====|

@  - Black Powder (Ignition Charge)

*  - Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide (Primary Charge)

#  - RDX or PETN (Secondary Charge)

-  - Two drops of wax on Bottom

+  - Tape covering top

=  - The bottom of shell casing

|  - Sides of .22 Magnum Shell

Uses:

        These little beauties can be used for almost any purpose or a larger

version can be used where a hard to detonate  substance is used.  Their main

use is for miniature hand grenades and other small explosives.

                  Potassium Chlorate/Sugar Ignitor    

     This ignitor is one of my  many favorites, it can be ignited by either

concentrated sulfuric or nitric acids.  It also works excellently as a time

delay, which I will detail later.

Materials:

Potassium Chlorate (drug stores and chemical supply houses)

(Granulated) Sugar (grocery store)

Measuring Container (cup, tablespoon, etc...)

Storage Container w/tight fitting lid

Mixing Container w/tight fitting lid

2 flat boards (1 large 36x36 & the other small so it can be held in the hand)

Procedure:

1)    Spread handful at a time the potassium chlorate on the  large board and      rub with the other  flat board  or  a  rolling  pin until the particles resemble granulated sugar.                                                                   

  2)    Now measure out 2 parts by volume of sugar into the container, and then      add 3 parts by volume of the Potassium Chlorate  to the container.  Now      recap the container and shake the mixture for 4-5  minutes until it has      a uniform color and consistency.3) Store  for  future use in an air tight container, but remember to shake      it up before use to re-mix any settled particles.